S.J wrote and talked with us about aftercare for Rest Area. Kali Rose said the snake I ran over on my e-bike was a good omen, and she’s never going to let that go. I arrive in Vienna, cafés I’d aimed for are closed for lunch so I find myself in Café Jelinek, a bit off Mariahilfestr. neighbourhoods I’ve biked through before. A second breakfast, after our all-’80s singing one in Landgasthaus Rodlhof on 3 hours sleep, raked from the work and hungover, is a big mug of coffee, croissant and honey, bowl of fruit and yoghourt, 4 slices bread with cream cheese, chives, tomatoes, all for 9,50 €. On the plane, easyJet to Schönefeld, they offer me two seats, ’cos I’m mad tall. I fall over myself into it. 4 hours later, a half before midnight and the Danube churning in my lungs, I arrive home. Katrin has left dinner on the table for me. Aftercare all the way.
I stood on the Ottensheim ferry each night, crossing and recrossing the Danube, the air growing cold and damp. Water. Spirits of the drowned. Direct line to Australian ghost travellers. A fog that hangs on the surface and coats metal with condensation, soaks into wood and lungs. I stood on the ferry’s Wilhering side, furthest from the wheelhouse, while Rest Area was in the van beside me. Unlit and isolated, I opened the van door twice every fifteen minutes, one person in, one person out. I breathed the Danube air, scraping my airways, sluicing my heat out. This is two minutes of the sound outside Rest Area, from the fastest part of the river, on Sunday night at 8:20pm. (Sounds like gargling static, but a memory nonetheless.)
First evening in Ottensheim, we all jump on the Drahtseilbrücke Ottensheim, a cable ferry that pendulums across to Wilhering on the other side, about 160 metres away. Up the river to Kraftwerk Ottensheim-Wilhering, Schloss Ottensheim on the hill, the town of Ottensheim itself with Pfarrkirche hl. Ägidius above the ferry pier (play spot the building with Wikipedia) on the market square where Kali and I did Friday in with goat cheese, bread, Most, smoked fish, apples and pears, and the most excellent Donau.hof restaurant where we ended up most days, either for eating or for drinking (& cheers to the head waiter for mad good service), further right the pointy apex of old church cum organ pipe factory cum rest home cum apartments where we had impromptu afternoon tea with a woman who lives there because we liked her garden so she showed us around, past the hills of Dürnberg and down the river to Linz, 10 km or so around the corner, and all the banks of the river we wandered and biked daily, if only to get our heads and emotions in order for Rest Area.
The incomparable SJ Norman, of Berlin, Sydney, Melbourne, and various other cities, will not be in Linz for their live art work, Rest Area. Kali Rose will be. And me. This coming weekend on the Danube. I know approximately three people who pass through Linz on occasion, or rather who are parts of Austria other than Vienna, and we’re not even in Linz, instead, a small town 10 minutes upstream in a town called Ottensheim. Here’s the details, get yourself to Linz for some banging SJ Norman art.
When: 23rd and 24th September 2017, 5pm till 12:00pm
Where: Linz, Danube & Ottensheim
(on boats, in cars on the ferry boat)
What: Live art & theatre-miniatures for a very small number of guests or one-to-one.
Club Real (DE), Patrik Huber (AT), Zigurrat Project (HU), Vida Cerkvenik Bren (SLO), Boris Nieslony (DE), Anatol Bogendorfer (AT) & Jens Vetter (DE) Als Gitter, S.J Norman (AUS), Martha Labil (AT), Bernadette Laimbauer (AT)
Concert: Bruch, Sat 23rd Sep – 9pm, MS Sissi, shipping pier Ottensheim
A hint from the ship’s kobold:
It’s up to you personally what you are experiencing. At SPOTTER TRIP, you are invited to be troubled and to play an active role. The adventure can begin. Anchor aweigh, cast off!!