In the opposite direction to my original intent, Alex Platz, down Alte Jacobstr, often an unmemorable street, at one intersection looking down I noticed a double row of cobblestones running off-centre along the length of the otherwise asphalted road, and turning into where I’d just come from. A metal plate worn smooth and rustless by endless passing traffic bore the inscription in a plain raised typeface, “Berlin Mauer 1961-1989”.

I was looking for the Haus Amerika Gedenkbibliothek, a rather highly recommended borrowing library in Blücherstr. Crossing the Kanal, turning left cycling and finding nothing where there should be books, I continued thinking of Walter Benjamin and his remarks on getting lost in a city, rather than finding your way around. I found my way to Geneisenaustr and along, past Volksgarten Hasenheide, floating on my bicycle, now with in intent and use of map to steer myself past cobbled streets, tree lined, ascending gently and not quite square with Karl Marx Allee deeper into Neuköln, turning into a small wind of side streets and looking for number 2…

The bread from Mehlwurm is quite my favourite, and not just for partisan reasons. And they sell the best natural peanut butter – and the cheapest – I’ve so far unearthed in Berlin. I drooled also at croissants and other pastries, but thought of the ‘currency realignment’ now so named instead of ‘global depression’, as though it were some astrological shifting of Alan Greenspan into the house of Mercury descendant, has made me anxious.

mmm peanut butter…

mehlwurm vollkornbäckerei, pannierstr neuköln
mehlwurm vollkornbäckerei, pannierstr neuköln