A friend was in town for a day, so I subjected him to my tour of Canton, walking from where the Pearl river bends north at Liwan in a scraggly and torturous procession across town to the eastern edge of Dong Shan, avoiding the blazing multi-lane arteries, and mostly winding through alleys and lanes too narrow for cars or even occasionally, light. I didn’t take any photos except for one, a ceramic tile mural overlayed with air-conditioners and phone numbers, a relic announcing 一队夫妻只生育一孩子 – “one family should only have one child”.