grunewald … nordwärts vom nikolaisee

The S-Bahn detoured to Messe Sud, somewhere I’d never heard of before, then the ersatzverkehr bus dragged me the length of that absurd Autobahn cutting Grunewald, depositing me at the far south end – S-Bahn Nikolaisee. I decided to walk in the opposite direction to my usual.

My vague plan was to veer immediately towards the lake, then follow by or near the coast up till Havelchausee (another piece of tarmac through the forest), crossing over to continue by the lake and perhaps stumble by Kaiser-Wilhelm-Turm continuing up into the bulge of the forest between the north end of Großer Wannsee and Teufelsberg before heading east-ish to S-Bahn Grunewald. Mostly I managed that, though once past the Turm, having discovered blisters growing on blisters, curved more directly towards the finish.

The weather was close to perfect. Cold, grey occasionally split by shafts of turbulent sun, wet – not quite raining though – and tempestuously windy. As with my love of climbing, I don’t think too deeply about why my ideal hiking conditions verge on atrocious, and being wet, cold and suffering is sublime. Part of it is that there are simply less people, and so an according increase in wildlife activity.

I didn’t take many photos. These walks are in part just to enjoy the rhythm of moving across uneven ground surrounded by woods for hours on end until I ache a little, and so I only infrequently pause, though the idea of spending many hours photographing one small copse or gully is seductive. The light early on was beautiful, and most of the photos I took were in the first kilometer. They don’t capture though the ethereal glow beneath the turning leaves; at times it feels as though I am nowhere near a big city, and have arrived in some transcendental landscape.

grunewald again…

How did that happen? A month and hot a single hike or walk. I thought perhaps it had been two weeks since my last journey down the S-Bahn but puh! not that long.

It was very warm and sun shining the whole day, enough so that Grunewald was awash in families, dogs, children, runners, cyclists, mushroom hunters and other despoilers of the autumn routine of the trees and animals. Woodpeckers were especially busy; mushrooms and other fungi not so as last time.

I decided to walk slightly further west before veering off south-ish, skirting one of the small lakes and wetlands before gently looping around to arrive at Dahlemer Feld. I was aiming for Havelgraben, the cleft on the east side of the small hill that is Haveltor or berg, and somehow in my successful wandering found myself after an hour exactly where I’d started. I think that’s the first time ever I’ve found myself turned around like that. I decided to head in the direction of Nikolaisee instead, not trusting that I wouldn’t do a silly repeat of my circular walking, and so veered off in the other direction.

Grunewald is ruined by a dead straight line that gouges from its north-east corner to the south-west tip. Almost the longest distance between any two borders of the forest is on one side the somewhat harmless Kronprinzessinnenweg, a sealed road for those not feeling like wandering in the muck of trees, on the other the venerable S-Bahn, raised on its pile of stones, and in-between the obnoxiously loud and very Roman sounding Avus. Otherwise known as the E51 / 115. An autobahn.

Not content to merely vandalise the centre of the forest, to make it impossible easy crossing from the heart of the woods to the lakes; being without noise barriers, it ceaselessly pollutes a kilometer-wide band on either side of its monument to personal selfishness with either a anxious, insistent rumble or unrestrained ear-tormenting blare, depending on one’s proximity.

Couldn’t they have at least buried it? As with all instances of trees coming into contact with urban planning though, nothing signals ‘coming in under budget’ like a single trunk, a copse or an entire Wald. Especially when the natives either side of said woods happen to of the class which approves such planning. (On that note, I can also happily say our Baum in Uferstrasse will remain. I wonder if anyone has told it the good news?)

Finding one way across, and with Schlachtensee in the unseen distance, I continued south with half-hearted attempts at wandering until being spat out at the S-Bahnhof. Not quite as enjoyable as last time, but utterly joyous in places. Nothing either rain or unfrolicsome cold wouldn’t fix. And I’ve barely begun to explore the whole forest. Some photos…

grunewald

Schlachtensee, Krume Lanke and the lakes along the east side of Grunewald have been my favourite walks around Berlin since soon after I first came here. There not so long ago with Gala and again with Dy, I discovered new parts; further west but still bounded in that direction by the S-Bahn and highway.

Rainy, cold, grey and peopleless, today was a typically perfect day for me to go further that way, cross over the dividing rails to see what the great body of Grunewald might have. My method of navigation, which often I find eerily accurate in a I’m-not-paying-attention kind of way, still got me going in an approximately desired direction as opposed to mired in a hopeless gyre; in this case mostly south-ish with west-ish tendencies.

It is mushroom season and the last few warm days met at their end with today’s rain found the forest erupting from all damp, moist, earthy orifices in a beautiful diversity of fungi. I was hoping the path I planned to wander wouldn’t be either too occupied by others nor too obviously a path, so I could feel at least a little as though I wasn’t surrounded by a city and it’s periphery. Lucky then my crypto-navigation also is accompanied by, “That path is sort-of in the direction I think I am to go, furthermore it is small, mostly overgrown and unused. Also wet. Perfect!”

After some time where I felt much the same as I did on my cold and wet circumnavigation of Lainzer Tiergarten in Wien, I found myself on a small bluff overlooking Havelsee. Much walking later, now thinking I needed to continue south-ish but east-ish also, I fell out at the furthest south-east corner possible, by S-Bahn Nicolaisee; just where I’d hoped.

Some photos of mushrooms and trees…

grunewald schlachten see

Raining in steady endless sheets, grey and the faint sense of autumn already. While hiking around Vienna I thought I should continue this now back in Berlin, and so went for a short walk with Dasniya along one of my favourite places nearby, Grunewald and Schlachtensee. The inclement day kept most people away and getting turned around in the forest added to the feeling of directionlessness. Some ducks on the lake…

opening … and so on

We opened. Friday. Yes, is now Monday and half-way through. Two shows a day in Café Prückel, and so I drink much coffee and spend the remainder of the day blllrrrblllrrr…

Opening found us later at the ImPulsTanz lounge. I seem to have been not so social this festival, and this was my first visit there. I expect likely to have one more, though am more excited about returning to Lainzer Tiergarten, where I went on Saturday, our day off.

Also a day of cold, grey rain and wind. I decided some 20km of walking up and down and back up again might be perfect, and standing atop the tower at Hubertuswarte, above the crowns of the forest, belted by the inclement storm and near swept off and become airborne myself … mmm perfect way to spend a day.

Café Prückel is going rather well, somewhat chaotic each time in different ways, and becoming more a bacchanalia each time also. Four more to go, then back to Berlin on Wednesday — it’s been a while since I was properly there.

Back to opening night, Lewis — who has absconded from Wellington — and I practice our feast and the beast scene. I haven’t been taking any other photos lately (even missing the families of wild boars in the Tiergarten), and anyway… he’s been an avid stalker of supernaut for years, so it’s only fitting he finds his way into here now.

lainzer tiergarten

I took off away from the city yesterday, as I’d been planning since before I arrived, remembering wandering in the hills around Vienna during DanceWEB and needing some noise of forests and trees. Much looking on maps and planning where to go took me along the U4 from Stadtpark to Lainzer Tiergarten, the 500 year old hunting ground of the Ferdinand I.

First walking from Nikolaitor upwards until arriving at Wiener Blick, much like Waterfall Gully, but Eucalyptus replaced by Walnut, Ash, Plane, Furs and others, not a few close to the age of the park itself. Then I got a bit lost. Somehow I’d decided I’d started from Lainzer Tor and had the idea I’d walk to Rohrhaus then circle back around via Hubertuswarte. Instead, finding myself approaching the end far too early, I discovered I’d in fact begun from Nikolaitor and was now at … Lainzer Tor. Lucky my idea of a good time is 5 hours by foot.

Considering it’s only been the last couple of weeks my hip and knee have calmed down (thanks to a rather good physio in Wedding) enough to cycle, yoga, and walk for hours after months of annoyance, a gentle walk of this long in rolling hills was enough to make me moan with pleasure at aching hips and legs. I really want to be enjoying days on my own in the mountains again, and soon.

Returning via St. Veiter Tor, I saw first a wild boar cross my path, silhouetted by a gash in the forest at the apex of a small rise. We were both as shocked as each other and tottered off with a bit of a gallop. Later, a pair of Fallow Deer, much less interested in humans than the ones behind the fence near Hermesvilla.

schwarzwald

Only a bit of it, really. From Annaplatz out and left to the end of the street, past the Turkish grocery store, a trestle covered in fruit, Johannisbeere, which we all seem to recall no one knows the english word for, (so I spent some time on wiki and found it’s red currant…), and then up the hill into the forest, much cooler than on the streets, walking always choosing up, up is the best option, smaller paths and up… and then after a time down, and then to Oma’s Küche for coffee and Johannisbeerensaft.

to move freely

Approaching a return to Melbourne, back to airports on Saturday and to … see if I can make sense of what this new piece is. I’ve had a wonderful couple of weeks in Adelaide, certainly for now my home, days with Gala and Daniel and Alison that I suppose to say make apparent it is friendship that makes life. Yesterday then, a day with Gala walking up Waterfall Gully.

On the way up I discovered how unfit I am, and felt like the Witch of the Waste in Howl’s Moving Castle, all red-nosed and quivering jowls and gerontic feebleness. Gala who seems to feel hills not at all hauled me up the last bump. So much for trekking along the Nü River later this year, I thought, and you can also relieve yourself of fantasies of climbing mountains.

On the return, an easy skip down an easy path we talked, and … somewhere I was thinking of a passage from Chuang Tze, and … well it was another passage altogether, but I was also thinking about this one, which is one of Sam Crane at The Useless Tree’s favourite passages, and he even mentioned it in regard to Wittgenstein’s final proposition in the Tractatus, that was also floating around during all the people …

I also like it quite a bit, and feel an affinity for this passage for the mention of Hsi Shih or Xi Shi, 西施, one of the four beauties of classical China. Shortly after I arrived in Guangzhou, I asked my translator to give me a Chinese name. After a couple of days she returned with 方希石, a phonetic play on Frances, but also with multiple meanings, people would say, it’s not a name a Chinese person would have, but it’s a very good name, 希有, rare or uncommon, 希望, to wish for or desire, and the play on tones 希石, my name is a first and second tone, 西施, Xi Shi is two first tones.

I suppose this is all to say … what?

I came to Adelaide because I had friends here who mean so much to me, and being here found new friends who have given me much inspiration and happiness and this is something I can’t live without. Also to say I had a rare and very special day yesterday I will remember until I am old and feeble.

Sufficient because sufficient. Insufficient because insufficient. Traveling the Way makes it Tao. Naming things makes them real. Why real? Real because real. Why nonreal? Nonreal because nonreal. So the real is originally there in things, and the sufficient is originally there in things. There’s nothing that is not real, and nothing that is not sufficient.

Hence, the blade of grass and the pillar, the leper and the ravishing [beauty] Hsi Shih, the noble, the sniveling, the disingenuous, the strange – in Tao they all move as one and the same. In difference is the whole, in wholeness is the broken. Once they are neither whole nor broken, all things move freely as one and the same again.

Only one who has seen through things understands moving freely as one and the same. In this way, rather than relying on you own distinctions, you dwell in the ordinary. To be ordinary is to be self-reliant; to be self-reliant is to move freely; and to move freely is to arrive. That’s almost it, because to arrive is to be complete. But to be complete without understanding how – that is called Tao. (23-24)

— chuang tzu – david hinton trans.

my baby is gone

Before I came to Adelaide, I dismantled my beautiful aluminium bicycle and along with half of my hiking gear, put it into hibernation. I never enjoy doing this, it feels slightly cruel, a temporary euthanasia, and this time I’d also stripped off some parts in anticipation of a long overdue rebuild, new bearings, cones, brakepads, cables, a complete dissembling to force myself to clean and scrub and polish and love my baby.

I’d just bought new tires, the slick, road-suctioning Specialized Fat Boys, that are the final mark in the transition of what was a downhill racing mountain bike into a fleet and gymnastic street bike. I’m going to reminisce on fourteen years of joy with what I in no small part seriously described as my longest relationship, a bike that were it alive would be the most sublime Arabian mare, who always slept in my room, and with whom I shared adventures and loss of skin.

People would say, oh I saw you on your bike, speeding like, wooosh … so fast, but it was always only half me, my bike could never go slow and I climb through the gears struggling to keep up, pushed from behind. So I’m giving this some anthropomorphic quality, like it was alive, and sometimes I thought she’d roll off on her own, so well-balanced and eager for movement.

I have this rough scar on my left hip, from where my front wheel was ensnared in a tram track on Swanston Street, hurling me in a vicious arc at the road, in a hail of arms and legs, bouncing and cartwheeling, I could hear people exclaiming with horror at the spectacle of my disaster. My bike was a little shaken, and needed a trip to my favourite bike shop for some tenderness. I was mostly bleeding with a hole torn in my hip to opalescent bone, dripping blood from a bouquet of elbows, knees, ribs and other sharp bits, and a concussion looking like I was an undead zombie. Lisa and Luke will remember me stumbling into rehearsal at Chunky Move like this.

Eighteen months later, my fear of trams tracks surmounted through a slick little hop of the front wheel, I laughed as I slid on other elbows, knees, thighs and bits as my back wheel greased out from under me on a glassy wet Brunswick Street track. More leaking of fluids.

I have a decoration of faint and raised dots down my right shin, where the front chain ring bit me, an emulsion of black chain grease, dirt and once more, me. This is love.

There is a hill in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne, along High Street somewhere coming towards town that starts as a long straight downwards incline, cutting a set of red lights to get a terminal velocity and then banking right across two lanes speeding over 60, hanging far to the right and pushing the bike upright, the camber of the road sloping away under each tyre promising a fast messy slide into an abrupt curb, then having taken up both lanes cars even opening space, an even faster stretch down to a long left curve, this time the road’s inclination pushing me deeper into its surface. Speed. Faster than cars. Both terror and utter wild exhilaration.

I never felt tired on my bike.

Of course this story has a bad ending.

My beautiful bike, all dismantled and folded together, shrouded in old sheets and padded with hiking equipment, sealed under layers of tape in its box is gone. Stolen.

I went to move last night and where the box should have been was only emptiness.

I feel … today … hungover. Also utterly heartbroken. This bicycle, for certain causes I won’t write of is so much a part of me. It is as though my child has been kidnapped, abused, slain, and dumped in a lonely field. And with that, I feel it is my fault, I didn’t protect her. Fourteen years of lives together.

Nothing much more to say, except a dread feeling of impending doom, and the revulsion at the thought of these thieves touching my baby. I’ve been crying a lot and really want to drink until I pass out. Yesterday, today, tomorrow.

So, being practical now.

My bike is very special. Unique. It is an early 90s Marin Rocky Ridge, a 15.5 inch polished aluminium frame with black forks, serial number ME2HA0233. It has ‘Marin’ in big black letters on the down tube. There were only a handful imported to New Zealand where I bought it, possibly none in Australia. I’ve never seen another.

Besides this rarity, it was heavily customised and unmistakable if you saw it. All the componentry was replaced with 2001 Shimano XT, and a 7-speed rear cassette and v-brakes. The handlebars are Specialized Tribars, curved like bull’s horns and wrapped in black cork tape, plus bits of gaffer on the left side. The seat post is Ritchie, and is raised to its limit, making almost as long as the seat tube. The seat is WTB with red kevlar patches on both sides, torn on the left. The rims are Mavic, the rear newer and deeper than the front. The chain stay has a blue velcro chain-slap guard attached. The tires are treadless Specialized Fat Boys. The pedals are Shimano SPDs. There were no reflectors.

Also in the box was a Mountain Designs one-person tent in bright orange. A brand new Korean backpack, I don’t think this brand is imported here, but I can’t remember the name. An MSR stove and pots, I think Whisperlite or XGK, but both look a bit different from my one. A bunch of other cold and wet weather hiking gear I haven’t had time to itemise until I go through the box they didn’t touch.

Altogether this weighed around 40kg, not easy for someone to carry around on their own in a large and cumbersome box. And the value? My bike was around $2500 when I bought it and I spent around $1500 upgrading it. The hiking gear round $2000.

lerderderg gorge tunnel

A trip to Lerderderg Gorge yesterday for a leisurely afternoon of hiking along the Tunnel trail, a hacked laceration through a low granite saddle topped with a century of dry forest detritus, a small, nicked gash as if some giant hand smashed a too soft blade on the up-fold between two streams, the vertically layered stone fracturing only enough for the separate flows to mingle, in truth neatly and painfully cut by the hands of miners with ill-suited tools and lascivious gold-speckled craving.

lerderderg river tunnel lerderderg river tunnel

above the tunnel above the tunnel

near sardine creek near sardine creek